Jan 19 2009

The Accidental Connoisseur: An Irreverent Journey Through the Wine World

Published by at under Wine Books

What is taste? Is it individual or imposed on us from the outside? Why are so many of us so intimidated when presented with the wine list at a restaurant? In The Accidental Connoisseur, journalist Lawrence Osborne takes off on a personal voyage through a little-known world in pursuit of some answers. Weaving together a fantastic cast of eccentrics and obsessives, industry magnates and small farmers, the author explores the way technological change, opinionated critics, consumer trends, wheelers and dealers, trade wars, and mass market tastes have made the elixir we drink today entirely different from the wine drunk by our grandparents.

In his search for wine that is a true expression of the place that produced it, Osborne takes the reader from the high-tech present to the primitive past. From a lavish lunch with wine tsar Robert Mondavi to the cellars of Marquis Piero Antinori in Florence, from the tasting rooms of Chateau Lafite to the humble vineyards of northern Lazio, Osborne winds his way through Renaissance palaces, $27 million wineries, tin shacks and garages, opulent restaurants, world-famous chais and vineyards, renowned villages and obscure landscapes, as well as the great cities which are the temples of wine consumption: New York, San Francisco, Paris, Florence, and Rome. On the way, we will be shown the vast tapestry of this much-desired, little-understood drink: who produces it and why, who consumes it, who critiques it? Enchanting, delightful, entertaining, and, above all, down to earth, this is a wine book like no other.

Customer Review: After awhile you just want to come home...

I found myself truly enthusiastic about this book from the first chapter. I liked the writing, it was funny, sardonic, tongue-in-cheek, not typical in the world of wine writing. The memoir at the beginning...describing the Beaujolais he believed he was quaffing as our Lord's hemoglobin as a Catholic school boy... I thought it was going be unique...the humor, the "irreverent" tone.

This is a "not bad" book but not truly "irreverent". Despite his attempts at trying to downplay meeting Robert Mondavi and Piero Antinori, getting together with rustic winemakers in Italy and California, it doesn't really work. There are moments of humility here, modesty but not many. After awhile I couldn't relate to Osborne's observations, describing cuisine I've never heard of or tasted. The narrative structure also tires - Osborne goes from winery/winemaker to winery/winemaker describing the buildings, the people, the atmosphere with little real enthusiasm, following through with formulaic efforts, each chapter a variation of the previous.

All in all, the book feels spoiled (should I say "corked"?). After the first few chapters, I started to see the pattern. There is reverence here. It's the ideal "wine snob" book. The title is aimed at everyday people, people not into the "hoopla" of wine. There's hoopla here, just hidden. Osborn really isn't much of an accidental connoisseur, just a journalist who name drops and mopes about criticizing the way wine has changed in the world.

If you're someone just looking to learn about wine, its pleasures and pursuits, check out Natalie Maclean's "Red White and Drunk All Over" If you want something more with a bit more enthusiasm, "Wine: A Life Uncorked" by Hugh Johnson. Johnson writes brilliantly, he is an aristocrat but it feels like he truly appreciates the life he has had and the experience of wine. Get Osborne's book from the library if you're truly curious. Maclean and Johnson's books are treasures.

Customer Review: The Accidental Connoisseur - A Travel Memoir about the Wine World - Worth a Read!

This book is really a travel memoir about one man's journey into the wine world, and not necessarily a "wine book." Understand that and you can get a lot of pleasure out of this one. For those who love tongue-in-cheek humor, it's also worth a few laughs.

I'm a reader, but also a wine enthusiast. I don't drink wine often, but I try to read up and stay informed. Imagine my surprise when I was given this book as a gift. You see, I am familiar with Lawrence Osborne's fiction, having read his first novel years ago. Ania Malina (King Penguin) But I had no idea that he wrote about wine.

First and foremost, Mr. Osborne is a very accomplished writer. His fiction has somehow flown under the radar in the states. The flowery writing style he uses in this book differs from his fiction and brings more of his own "voice" to the memoir. While he can be a little wordy, he comes across more as genuine and not at all pompous. He is very honest and openly admits the gaps in his wine knowledge. Yes, he does take a few sarcastic jabs at some of the wine makers, but he does so respectfully. Clearly, he simply disagrees with some of the places the wine world is going, with $1000 bottles and ivory tower ratings.

The book takes you through a dozen or so excursions to wineries in California, Italy and France. By the end of the book, the writer seems tired of the wine world and is comfortable just to enjoy wine for what it is.

Considerations
- This book is not for those seeking wine education. It is a great travel journal about one man's quest to scratch the surface of the wine culture.
- The author's random insertions of historical background throughout his travels seemed at times to be out of place or overdone. It is informative and I definitely learned. A little rearranging and some more edits would have made it better for me.
- I can see how some would criticize the lack of a traditional climax. This memoir still made sense to me as a real experience. I disagreed with some of the author's ideas, but in the end, the author's perspective comes across as genuine.

Overall, I enjoyed this book and plan to read it again in the future. I only wonder why 4 years have passed since the author's last book. I hope you'll give this one a try.

Enjoy!


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